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The Santos Dumont Route (1º crux IIº) was conquered (the first time someone climbed and bolted it for protection) by Alice Maryan Fernandes, Raimundo Michetti and Salomyth Fernandes on july the 10th, 1966 ... it was one of the first routes of the east face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) to be climbed ... because of that, you actually climb on the side of the sea, always facing the beautiful city of Niterói and admiring the Baia de Guanabara (Guanabara´s Bay)
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It is amusing enough to see how humans react towards the mountain: some of them are very self-confident (on the surface at least) while others keep looking around like saying: Just what the hell am I doing here ?? |
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But of course it´s impossible to miss the beauty as you walk on the Pista Claudio Coutinho that will eventually lead you to the east face of the Pão de Açúcar |
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| Almost everyone says that they are in good shape and on this short trail prior to the climbing itself I can have a pretty good idea of wheter I will have an easy or difficult day |
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Oh shit !! We´ve just got to the rock itself ... "shoes on !!" i say ... "fuck they hurt !!" you answer ... and then you realize that you have to learn how to do the knots if you want to move on, or by any chance you thought I was going to do them for you ?? Not a single chance !! (Click for Video) |
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To start heating our engines we have this first climbing part of I˚ (crux II˚) ... no problema, right ?? |
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This is the view you get after the Escadinha de Jacó rock climbing part ... how about that huh ?? |
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It is not going to get easy from now on mate ... hikecliming can be a daunting task if it´s the first time you use rock climbing shoes (damn they´re tight !!) |
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... then you realize where are you heading: Paredão Santos-Dumont ... holly Jesus-fuck !! |
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After a short break and a deep security-procedures-talk you decide that after 170 meters you are not going to quit, so you ready yourself ... "you are secured you can come !!" i say ... "moving on !!" you reply ... (Click for Video Before the Crossing) |
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... "It was not so bad" you keep thinking after the initial moves ... "bolt !!" you shout ... you are reclipping the rope onto the carabiner and suddenly you look up ... a huge roof appears ... you look down ... "i should probably keep moving" you think ... (Click for Video After the Crossing) |
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... "secured !!" you shout as you clip your runner on the peer carabiner ... "guys, you have to trust me that these bolts can hold up to 2000 Kilograms" i say ... everyone nods automatically but their eyes say: whatever, just get me up !! i want up !! |
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... that is correct ... there is even a dihedral (some piece of rock which is not completely attached to the main mountain) on the thing ... and you know what ?? you are going to love it !!
(Click for Video at the Dihedral
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... where should i go now Akelá ?? ...
(Akela´s note on this: why does everyone ask exactly the same question on this exact same part ??
i mean ... isn´t it obvious that you have to go up ??)
(Click for Video at the Smearing Part)
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at the devil´s crossing, the crux (most difficult part) of the route:
... there is nothing you could hold with your hands ... just with your feet ...
(Click for Video at the Crux of the Devil´s Crossing)
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and all of this for what ?? ... to be hanging on a bolt ?? ... you have to be joking me !! (Click for Video at Hanging on a Bolt) |
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... you have to understand that the above is a very confortable rock climbing resting spot ... you could sleep right there and if you have a girlfriend who is a rock climber as well you could ... well, you know ............ anyway, the point is that you have to keep climbing up ... (Click for Video at the Vertical of God) |
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... technical part is over, time to devour Akela´s special and secret sandwiches ... but beware for as soon as the lunch is over you should be ready for we head to the speed climbing section !! ...
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... but hey, the desire to lay down on the rock near the summit is irresistible ... (and Akelá will pretend that is not seeing you)
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| ... YOU FUCKIN´ DID IT !! Holy Mary Mother of God !! ... "dont touch me !! you are all sweaty and stinky !!" ... just kidding !! here, give me a big hug !! (or kiss if you are a girl, hehehe) |
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... this is it, the moment that all of you have been waiting for: to take the fucking shoes off !! ... oh yes !! give it to me !! i want to hear you having an orgasm !! ... (for a complete understanding of this supreme and utterly important momentum you have to go to the Orgasm Section) |
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Obviously you would like to be inmortal at this time on the summit ... wouldn´t you ???
after all, you are at the summit of the Pão de Açúcar !!
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and when we get to the summit ?? The best view in town including Praia Vermelha (Red Beach), Praia do Flamengo, Botafogo, Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Baia de Guanabara, Niterói, Morro dos Dois Irmãos, Cristo do Corcovado, Pedra da Gávea, etc ...
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and when the time to get down comes ?? for free in the cable car !! ... not to mention that soon after you can show-off yourself and say:
I climbed the Sugar Loaf !!
Are you hungry for more amazing pictures ??
then you should rush and visit the Pictures Section !!
Would you like to see what other people said after they did it ??
then the Reviews Section is a must !!
| Location: | East Face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) - Rio de Janeiro, RJ |
| Estimated Time: | 1 hours of hikeclimbing and 4 of rock climbing - D3 |
| At what time ?? | Leaving: 11:00 a.m. and Arriving: 8:00 p.m. |
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| Hikeclimbing: | Tough - Class 4 |
| Escadinha de Jacó Route: | Rock Climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Good Protection - E1; aprox. 20 meters (67 ft) height in 1 pitch |
| Santos-Dumont Route: | Rock Climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 200 meters (656 ft) height in 8 pitches |
| Obs: | We climb on the shade. You don´t need to have previous experience or to be in shape, even persons that are afraid to heights can do it (special treatment) |
| Includes: | lunch, water, all the rock climbing gear (harness, carabiners, climbing shoes, etc ...), first aids and survival kit; webpage (within our site) with all the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing to share with your friends and family !!; cd with the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing in full resolution and with 100 of the best brazilian music (samba, bossanova, capoeira, lambada, etc...) in MP3 format; descent on the cable car for free; transportation to and from your hotel/hostel .... and a few more surprises !! |
| To take: | small backpack, pair of socks, pair of trainers or hiking shoes, mosquito repelent (optional), sun blocker (optional) and photographic camera and/or camcorder (optional) |
| Price: | R$ 120 each person; max. of 6 persons; discount for groups |
| Location: | Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) |
| Difficulty: | Easy (A Little Experience Required) |
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The Boemia Gelada is an endurance route ... i mean, have you ever climbed 240 meters (787 ft) under a 40º heat of Rio de Janeiro ?? didn´t think so ... anyway, I hope your rappel (abseiling) and smearing techniques are o.k. .... if not akelá is going to be upset .... and believe me, you don´t want him to be upset while you are on the mountain ... hehehe |
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The girls will have to forgive me for I do not mean to be rude but ... well ... i will just have to say it ... this is the pussy (if you look at it from below it really looks like the feminine sexual organ) ... and it´s a real pleasure to climb it !! (no double meanings on this) (Click for Video at the Pussy) |
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... of course we will have many resting points on the route to appreciate the beautiful view of the sea ... particularly after the "Freddy Krueger was Here" part ...
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| This is the crux of the route (the most difficult part) ... in this case a brazilian IIIº ... do you think you can manage it ?? |
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... I introduce to you Rio de Janeiro: the Wonderful City ...
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and when the time to get down comes ?? for free in the cable car !! ... not to mention that soon after you can show-off yourself and say:
I climbed the Sugar Loaf !!
Are you hungry for more amazing pictures ??
then you should rush and visit the Pictures Section !!
Would you like to see what other persons said after they did it ??
then the Reviews Section is a must !!
| Location: | East Face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) - Rio de Janeiro, RJ |
| Estimated time: | 1 hours of hikeclimbing and 6 of rock climbing - D4 |
| At what time ?? | Leaving: 11:00 a.m. and Arriving: 8:00 p.m. |
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| Hikeclimbing: | Tough - Class 4 |
| Escadinha de Jacó Route: | Rock Climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Good Protection - E1; aprox. 20 meters (67 ft) height in 1 pitch |
| Boemia Gelada Route: | Rock climbing of 2º (crux IIIº) - a Little Difficult; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 240 meters (787 ft) height in 10 pitches |
| Santos-Dumont Route: | Rock climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 150 meters (492 ft) height in 6 pitches |
| Obs: | You need to have a little previous experience: dealing with abseiling, knots, belay (securing) techniques, smearing and little-grips climbing style, multi-pitch climbing |
| Includes: | lunch, water, all the rock climbing gear (harness, carabiners, climbing shoes, etc ...), first aids and survival kit; webpage (within our site) with all the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing to share with your friends and family !!; cd with the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing in full resolution and with 100 of the best brazilian music (samba, bossanova, capoeira, lambada, etc...) in MP3 format; descent on the cable car for free; transportation to and from your hotel/hostel .... and a few more surprises !! |
| To take: | small backpack, pair of socks, pair of trainers or hiking shoes, mosquito repelent (optional), sun blocker (optional) and photographic camera and/or camcorder (optional) |
| Price: | R$ 120 each person; max. of 4 persons; discount for groups |
| Location: | Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) |
| Difficulty: | Easy (A Little Experience Required) |
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As with the Boemia Gelada this is an endurance route ... i would risk to say this one is tougher because of the chimney technique involved ... but before that we have to get down by abseiling and then rock climb a bit in order to get to the entrance of the chimney ... |
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| ... finally we are inside the chimney, suddenly everything is quiet and cool ... not even the wind dares to disturb the peacefull scenario ... |
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... and then you realize that you´ll need different skills if you intend to move forward ... "it is too wide for me" you say .... "stretch your legs" I reply ... opposing the feet on different sides of the rock is the key for the chimney technique |
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... as in any good climbing you don´t use a single technique ... still inside the chimney you have to use scissors technique to overcome certain type of rocks ... |
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... the long awaited crux (the most difficult part) is at glance, you´ll have to gather all your strenght just to keep your balance for at the crux the chimney closely ressembles a bottleneck ... clearly pushing you the other side ... (Click for Video at the crux of the Chimney) |
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... "everything that has a beginning has an end" said the oracle ... and thus after 120 meters we leave the chimney but still have a long way to go ... |
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It is impossible to look at this view and not feel somewhat connected to it ... and this is specially true after you struggled so much to get here ... of course we could have taken the cable car but that wouldn´t be the same would it ?? ...
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and when the time to get down comes ?? for free in the cable car !! ... not to mention that soon after you can show-off yourself and say:
I climbed the Sugar Loaf !!
Are you hungry for more amazing pictures ??
then you should rush and visit the Pictures Section !!
Would you like to see what other persons said after they did it ??
then the Reviews Section is a must !!
| Location: | East Face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) - Rio de Janeiro, RJ |
| Estimated time: | 1 hours of hikeclimbing and 6 of rock climbing - D4 |
| At what time ?? | Leaving: 11:00 a.m. and Arriving: 8:00 p.m. |
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| Hikeclimbing: | Tough - Class 4 |
| Escadinha de Jacó Route: | Rock Climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Good Protection - E1; aprox. 20 meters (67 ft) height in 1 pitch |
| Chaminé Pão de Açúcar Route: | Rock climbing of 2º (crux IIIº) - a Little Difficult; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 230 meters (754 ft) height in 10 pitches |
| Santos-Dumont Route: | Rock climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 150 meters (492 ft) height in 6 pitches |
| Obs: | You need to have a little previous experience: dealing with abseiling, knots, belay (securing) techniques, smearing and little-grips climbing style, multi-pitch climbing ... some chimney and scissors technique would be nice as well |
| Includes: | lunch, water, all the rock climbing gear (harness, carabiners, climbing shoes, etc ...), first aids and survival kit; webpage (within our site) with all the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing to share with your friends and family !!; cd with the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing in full resolution and with 100 of the best brazilian music (samba, bossanova, capoeira, lambada, etc...) in MP3 format; descent on the cable car for free; transportation to and from your hotel/hostel .... and a few more surprises !! |
| To take: | small backpack, pair of socks, pair of trainers or hiking shoes, mosquito repelent (optional), sun blocker (optional) and photographic camera and/or camcorder (optional) |
| Price: | R$ 120 each person; max. of 4 persons; discount for groups |
| Location: | Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) |
| Difficulty: | Easy (A Little Experience Required) |
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... actually, before you can begin to climb the Tarcísio Resende Route you have to climb the Escadinha de Jacó (1º crux IIº), Costão (2º crux IIIº) and the São Bento Routes (1º crux IIº) ... i mean, the route actually starts at a 250 meters (820 ft) height ... |
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... there you are, this is the essence of the Tarcísio Resende Route ... basically you climb always to the left, about 240 meters (787 ft) to be precise ... essentially it is a big crossing that goes from the East Face to the South Face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) ... |
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... but of course, at some points you have to go up (I mean, we want to get to the top of the mountaint, don´t we ??) ... that´s the case with the crux (the most difficult part) ... I hope you like micro-holds, hehehe |
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... the fact that almost all of the route is a crossing (meaning you have to climb horizontally) makes this route more challenging and exposed than the previous ones, not to mention that you have to climb a lot just to get here and that you are climbing at 250 meters (820 ft) height ... want some more ?? |
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| Most of the time we are almost arriving to the top when the sunset starts ... i mean, can you imagine that ?? how many persons can actually say that they have seen a gorgeous sunset while climbing on the most beautiful mountain in Rio de Janeiro ?? |
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When the Pope (John Paul II) came to Rio in the 80´s he marveled at the view of the city and said that God is Brazilian ... but he forgot to say that if God is Brazilian then he must be carioca !!
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and when the time to get down comes ?? for free in the cable car !! ... not to mention that soon after you can show-off yourself and say:
I climbed the Sugar Loaf !!
Are you hungry for more amazing pictures ??
then you should rush and visit the Pictures Section !!
Would you like to see what other persons said after they did it ??
then the Reviews Section is a must !!
| Location: | East-South Face of the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) - Rio de Janeiro, RJ |
| Estimated time: | 1 hours of hikeclimbing and 6 of rock climbing - D4 |
| At what time ?? | Leaving: 11:00 a.m. and Arriving: 8:00 p.m. |
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| Hikeclimbing: | Tough - Class 4 |
| Escadinha de Jacó Route: | Rock Climbing of 1˚ (crux II˚) - Easy; Good Protection - E1; aprox. 20 meters (67 ft) height in 1 pitch |
| Costão Route: | Rock climbing of 2º (crux IIIº) - a Little Difficult; Well Protected - E1; aprox. 20 meters (65 ft) height in 1 pitch |
| São Bento Route: | Rock climbing of 1º (crux IIº) - a Little Difficult; Regular Protection - E2; aprox. 40 meters (131 ft) height in 3 pitches |
| Tarcísio Resende Route: | Rock climbing of 2º (crux IIºsup) - a Little Difficult; Well Protected - E1; aprox. 240 meters (787 ft) height in 12 pitches |
| Obs: | You need to have a little previous experience: dealing with knots, belay (securing) techniques, smearing and little-grips climbing style, multi-pitch climbing ... some crossing technique would be nice as well |
| Includes: | lunch, water, all the rock climbing gear (harness, carabiners, climbing shoes, etc ...), first aids and survival kit; webpage (within our site) with all the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing to share with your friends and family !!; cd with the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing in full resolution and with 100 of the best brazilian music (samba, bossanova, capoeira, lambada, etc...) in MP3 format; descent on the cable car for free; transportation to and from your hotel/hostel .... and a few more surprises !! |
| To take: | small backpack, pair of socks, pair of trainers or hiking shoes, mosquito repelent (optional), sun blocker (optional) and photographic camera and/or camcorder (optional) |
| Price: | R$ 120 each person; max. of 4 persons; discount for groups |
| Location: | Morro da Urca |
| Difficulty: | A Little Difficult (Some Experience Required) |
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This is not an endurance route, for it is relatively short (100 meters - 328 ft) if compared to the routes on the Sugar Loaf ... i would rather say it is a technical route ... from the very beginning your technique should be flawless, otherwise ... |
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... so there comes our first very serious challenge ... this type of roofs can be really daunting if you don´t know how to use an inverted grip ... |
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... "akelá, this is really slippery man you say ... "i know ... that is why this part is called Slippery as a Soap" i reply ... after it you can take a break, lay on the rock ... i just can´t give you a beer ... |
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... if you think that was the worst bit akelá is going to turn around, stare at you and ... just smile ... "poor bastard" might be his thinking ... hehehe (Click for Video) |
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| ... i know is a bit hairy but hey, look at it this way: you are climbing in front of the Sugar Loaf !! ... what else could you possibly ask for ?? ... o.k. i agree, a beautiful girl and a beer would do it |
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... "I see the end !!" I shout ... "You are cheating me Akelá ... you´ve been saying that for 1 hour !!" you reply ... but soon afterwards you see for yourself, you are inside a cave !! ... "Damn it´s good to be in the shade" you think ... |
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... did you actually think it was going to be for free on the cable car ?? ... that is for beginners ... WE do a 100 meters (328 ft) rappel (abseiling) ... and that can take a while ... (Click for Abseiling Video) |
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... and if you are a good boy (or good girl) maybe we are lucky enough to watch an spectacle of beauty such as this !!
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Are you hungry for more amazing pictures ??
then you should rush and visit the Pictures Section !!
Would you like to see what other persons said after they did it ??
then the Reviews Section is a must !!
| Location: | South Face of the Morro da Urca - Rio de Janeiro, RJ |
| Estimated time: | 2 hours of rappel (abseiling) and 4 of rock climbing - D3 |
| At what time ?? | Leaving: 11:00 a.m. and Arriving: 7:00 p.m. |
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| Arco-Íris Route: | Rock climbing of 3º (crux IIIºsup) - a Little Difficult; Well Protected - E1; aprox. 100 meters (328 ft) height in 5 pitches |
| Obs: | You need to have some previous experience: dealing with knots, belay (securing) techniques, smearing and little-grips climbing style, multi-pitch climbing, self-secured abseiling techniques ... some crossing and inverted grips technique would be nice as well |
| Includes: | lunch, water, all the rock climbing gear (harness, carabiners, climbing shoes, etc ...), first aids and survival kit; webpage (within our site) with all the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing to share with your friends and family !!; cd with the pictures, sounds and video clips of the climbing in full resolution and with 100 of the best brazilian music (samba, bossanova, capoeira, lambada, etc...) in MP3 format; descent on the cable car for free; transportation to and from your hotel/hostel .... and a few more surprises !! |
| To take: | small backpack, pair of socks, pair of trainers or hiking shoes, mosquito repelent (optional), sun blocker (optional) and photographic camera and/or camcorder (optional) |
| Price: | R$ 120 each person; max. of 4 persons; discount for groups |
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...to climb is to see an opportunity in every rock that appears in our life ... | |
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| ... to climb is to make progress on daily challenges ... |
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... to climb is to be trapped in non-favorable conditions and to be able to have the peace of mind to go ahead ... | |
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| ... to climb is to be open to new horizons ... |
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... to climb is like playing chess: requires some planning ... | |
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| ... to climb is not to despair on the sight of how much has to be done yet but to be happy on the sight of how much has already been done ... |
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... to climb is to tune our lifes ... | |
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| ... to climb is to surprise ourselves with the unexpected things that pop right in front of our noses ... |
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... to climb is to have the right balance to achieve our goals ... | |
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| I mean .... to climb is to make possible the impossible ... |
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... by the way ... the guy that appears in all the pictures above in this section is me ... Akelá ...
(if you are a beautiful girl i remind you that my wife is VERY jealous ... hehehe)
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Email: info@tupiniquimhostel.com.br ✔ Tel: +55 21 2244-1286 ✔ Tel/Fax: +55 21 2541-9224 Mobile: +55 21 7856-9062 ✔ MSN Messenger: tupiniquimhostel@hotmail.com ✔ Nextel: 55*83*51698 ICQ: 203408331 ✔ AIM: tupiniquimrio ✔ Jabber / Google Talk: tupiniquimhostel@gmail.com ✔ iChat: tupiniquimhostel@mac.com Orkut: Albergue Tupiniquim ✔ Yahoo Messenger: tupiniquimhostel ✔ Facebook: Tupiniquim Hostel ✔ Skype: tupiniquimhostel Google Maps: Rua São Manoel, 19 (esq. Rua da Passagem) - Botafogo - Rio de Janeiro, RJ - Brasil - CEP 22290-010 | ||
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